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There are two basic types of Nepenthes:
Once you understand their basic requirements, you can determine which group your growing conditions are best suited for. You will likely find that
with a little creativity, you can grow both! Additionally, many can be grown in intermediate conditions.
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You do not need a fancy Wardian Case to grow nepenthes. A simple fish tank works well and will hold
many plants in a small space. The following photographs illustrate how to set up a simple terrarium. |
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General
As the plants grow, the lower leaves and
pitchers will brown and die off. As this happens, make sure to remove the
dead material to avoid fungal problems. You can fertilize these plants with Miracid,
at 1/4 strength, applied directly into the pitchers. With young
plants you may have to use a syringe, but the results are well
worth the trouble! They don't need fertilizer to grow, but in the absence
of food (in an enclosed terrarium,) it is advisable to feed your
plants. HINT: Only feed the the older pitchers. Even if the top is starting to die, they
still absorb the nutrients and if you put too much in, you don't kill a new trap.
Propagation
If you find a tall plant unattractive, you can cut it off
and root it to make another plant. New growth will appear from the
lower part of the stem. (We will detail this process in a future update.)
Germinating Seed
We sow nepenthes seed on moist
dead sphagnum moss and place the pots in a terrarium among established plants.
The environment is perfect because they get plenty of light and humidity.
Fresh seed will start germinating within 4 weeks, but it may take as
long as six months. Plant your nepenthes seed immediately, because it has
a very short shelf life. I allow the plants grow for several months before
I transplant them individually into larger pots.
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Many of the lowland plants grow in this terrarium, but fancy grow chambers aren't essential.
Many of our best plants grow in enclosed greenhouse trays or fish tanks. |
Temperature
Lowland species grow best
in very warm temperatures, around 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. If
the temperatures are lower, growth is much slower. Temperatures below 45
will almost certainly kill these plants. You can place a submersible aquarium heater in a few inches
of water and place the pots above the water on a tray. (More details and photos in a future update)
Growing Media
25% coarse orchid bark (approximately 2" pieces)
25% seedling orchid bark mix
50% Canadian peat moss
Commercial plants are grown
in pots ranging from 3-6 inches, depending on the age and size
of the plants. Personal plants are grown directly in terrariums, which
are filled with 10 inches of the same mix.
Light
Lowland species don't like direct sunlight and their leaves can easily burn. Some species like N. ampullaria,
N. bicalcarata, N. hirsuta, N. macfarlanei and N. rafflesiana enjoy partially shaded conditions. Make sure to adjust your plants slowly to new conditions,
and it is safer to error on the side of dimmer light. It is easier to adjust your plants under artificial light, since you have more control of the environment.
Watering
With most Carnivorous Plants, it is essential to water with pure or distilled water. Nepenthes are more forgiving and can tolerate occasional tap
water. If you use tap water, make sure to flush out the pots seasonally. Open drainage is essential for healthy Nepenthes roots,
but lowland species can tolerate much wetter conditions than their highland counterparts. The heated humidifier is especially handy, because it
keeps the interior of the terrarium very humid, thus illiminating the need.
Humidity
Lowland species require a very high humidity for
proper pitchering. I keep the humidity above 50% at all times, while still
allowing air flow to keep the air from stagnating. A heated humidifier is
attached through the terrarium's back wall and runs 15 minutes every two
hours. This eliminates the need for daily hand
misting. Fancy grow chambers aren't essential - you can just place your
plants in an enclosed tray or fish tank to raise the humidity.
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Highland Nepenthes live in enclosed trays, on the bottom level of this grow shelf. Since the unit is in the cellar, the
plants cool down substantially in the evenings. |
Temperature
Most highland species prefer a maximum temperature around 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and 55 degrees F. at night. In the wild,
some of these species encounter frost and light freezes during the night. If the temperatures are too high, the plants will stop growing and possibly die.
Certain species from EXTREMELY elevated conditions, are near impossible to grow "well", in cultivation. Most notably, N. villosa and to a lesser extent,
N. rajah. You would almost have to grow these in a refrigerated terrarium or greenhouse to dupilcate their year round, naturally chilly conditions!
Growing Media
25% dead long fiber sphagnum moss
25% coarse orchid bark (approximately 2" pieces)
25% seedling orchid bark mix
25% Canadian peat moss
Most plants are grown in pots ranging from 3-6 inches, depending on the age of the plants. The pots
are topped with live sphagnum to keep the humidity high around the young plants.
Light
Highland species need brighter light than the lowland species and even appreciate morning sunlight if possible.
When changing any plants' environment, do it slowly, or you may burn the leaves and pitchers.
Watering
Highland nepenthes require a very well draining soil and don't like to have "wet feet". Plants in enclosed terrariums
normally need to be watered about once a week. Allow the soil to dry out a little in between watering and never water them on a schedule. You
should water more frequently for plants growing in open hanging baskets, perhaps every two or three days, and mist every day. To keep the leaves
from burning, mist in the early morning. Burning is more likely when the plants are grown in direct sunlight, since the droplets act like
magnifiers of the sun's light.
Humidity
If you have a plant which refuses to produce pitchers, it is likely due to insufficient humidity. If the plant isn't in
a terrarium, try spraying it twice a day. Highland species can tolerate lower humidity than the lowland species, but I still keep the humidity as high as possible.
Comparing temperature and humidity, the more important factor to control is the temperature.
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